Early July 2023

Saturday 1 July up and pack, which is the first time we've done this after staying somewhere for more than one night. Inevitably not as efficient a packing process as it was the first time around and there's a lot more rattling as we drive along. 

To say nothing of the fact that there's a coat hanging on the habitation door (“habitation” is motorhome speak for the living area) which has a bit trapped and flapping on the outside of the mo-ho. And we left one of the cupboard doors open. We're on the motorway almost immediately and so no place (legally) to stop….. but once we turn off and get to a red traffic light I can unbuckle and (illegally) scurry back to release the coat and shut the cupboard. 

Reach Armagh city and turn into Sainsbury's car park - the only way to stop is by taking up three spaces, so I do a quick run to the supermarket leaving John i/c of the mo-ho and able to move it if anyone growls at him.

Out of town to our next camp site, Little Acres which is on a farm. A single track road for the last mile and we meet one car coming the other way - fortunately fairly near a layby so they can back out of our way.

The camp site is very pretty, surrounded by small hills and next to a field of barley.  Only about 20 camping spots, fairly full, mostly families in tents (just one other camper van); we watch with interest as the family next to us put up their huge tent with inflatable 'poles'. So much quicker than putting actual poles together, threading them through the tent, cursing as things don't stay up as they should…. But a quick check on Google shows they're at least twice the price of a tent with poles.

Weather is still fine one minute and showers the next so it's another quiet evening. It's fairly light at 11.00 pm so we're happy that the mo-ho blinds are effective.

Sunday 2 July. Another day with mixed weather. John spends time going through the folder with all the instruction manuals for the different parts of the mo-ho. I read, study some Italian and research flights to New Zealand where we plan to go again ( if the family will have us back 😏) for Christmas. Prices are very high at that time of year,  so we’re looking for reasonable fares that don’t involve 10 hour stops / layovers and/ or iffy airlines.

Around 3.30 pm we agree it is probably safe to go out without getting soaked and we walk down Lisdonwilly Lane to the main road into Armagh. The centre is attractive with mainly late Georgian and Victorian buildings, two cathedrals (both called St Patrick’s) and a golden teapot - a sign that from 1870 was used to attract customers to family grocery store and café on Scotch Street and has now been restored and hung outside a hotel.

Go to the Hole in the Wall pub for a couple of beers

then to Dante’s pizzeria, for pizza before walking back up the hill - a round trip of about 4.5 miles. Camp site is very quiet this evening with only about four spots occupied.

Monday 3 July wake about 5.00 am to the sound of rain, but doze off and the sky has cleared by the time we wake up again. Lovely to see the sun! And it only rains once today. Camp site very quiet by the end of the day with only one other pitch taken.

Today John spends doing things to and researching aspects of the mo-ho. I dig out my lap top to make a start on my transcribing project. In January 1917 my great aunt, Olive, travelled by ship to the north of Greece and then to Serbia as a helper with the Serbian Relief Fund. She wrote a diary, which I have, and my plan is to type this up to preserve her experiences, and to try and visit some of the areas of Serbia where she worked (and was subsequently a PoW) when we go to Europe later this year.

Two sets of visitors drop by for a coffee and catch up, people that John was working with until late last year. Brigid and a colleague, Colin, at lunchtime, and Kieran in the evening. Good to see them all.

Tuesday 4 July leaving Little Acres today and the pack up time is definitely slicker than before!   Drive into Armagh,  park and go for a walk.  Visit St Patrick's Catholic Cathedral first - looks dour on the outside but has fantastic mosaics and stained glass inside.

Then on to St Patrick's Church of Ireland Cathedral which is on a hill opposite the RC Cathedral - they can keep an eye on each other that way.  

A tower rather than spires, and much plainer inside, though with a number of ornate tombs/ memorials mainly to churchmen and soldiers.

From Armagh we drive north west some fifty miles to Carrickfergus and stop for lunch in the mo-ho in the car park next to the castle.

Follow the coast road past Larne and north along the Antrim Coast road. There's a family legend that my great grandfather (or great great grandfather) Stirling, was involved in the design and/ or building of the Antrim Coast Road but I need to spend more time researching this.   In any case it is a very beautiful drive.

We're staying tonight in Cushendall in a camp site right on the coast. Lovely views. We go for a walk and enjoy seeing where the Glens of Antrim reach the sea.

Have supper and a peaceful night.

Wednesday 5 July after a shower (£1 for ten minutes - I only take five minute showers so only get half my pound's worth 🙄) and using the camp site facilities to empty the gray waste, we set off. I'm driving this morning. We travel the 16 miles to Ballycastle where we visit one of those "why didn't I think of this business idea" places, a drive up launderette. Two machines that take 20 kgs of washing, two that hold 9 kgs and two big dryers. Pay contactlessly, detergent is provided automatically. Brilliant.   

After the laundry excitement we head south east for eight miles to visit the Dark Hedges, which were used for a shoot in Game of Thrones. Neither of us have seen a single episode of Game of Thrones but the beech trees form a fantastic avenue. Originally planted in the 18th century as an impressive entrance to Gracehill House. Coach and car loads of other visitors but very lovely.

Back to the outskirts of Ballycastle where we're booked into Trench Farm Campsite; looks like camping is a new venture for the farm. Slightly sloping grass pitch and we have to deploy one of the level up wedges to get more or less level. Nice facilities but they'll need more than two loos and one shower if they get busy.  

Thursday 6 July today we are booked to visit Carrick a Rede rope bridge a few miles away. There's a barrier to stop high vehicles eg our mo-ho, accessing the car park, so we have to phone someone to come and let us in. We're given an introductory talk about the rope bridge and then it's a one mile walk. Queue for 10-15 minutes before being let onto the bridge which leads to a small island. Fishermen used to trap salmon and then the catch was sailed or rowed from the island to the nearest processing port. By building the bridge the catch could be taken up to the road and moved more quickly. Salmon fishing has stopped but the bridge remains to scare people!

Drive back to Ballycastle and, after a struggle to park, go for a mosey round the town centre where there must be at least eight pubs/ bars,  then head to Morton's on the harbour for much recommended fish and chips. It's raining so we're pleased to be able to eat in. First fish n chips for ages.

Walk back to the town centre and call in at Ursa Minor a bakery/ café that smells of delicious coffee. I'm greeted warmly, by name, at the counter and the woman serving is Ellie, a former colleague of mine, who now lives in Ballycastle. Small world! But sold out of bread so we order a loaf for pick up tomorrow.

Back to the camp site which is much busier this evening, still mostly tents. And still wet and windy. Have a snack supper, watch telly and feel smug that we're water and wind proof in the mo-ho.

Friday 7 July. Queue for the one shower and chat to a couple of people - still feeling smug as some of them got a bit wet in the night. But the rain's stopped now.  

Pack up and drive into Ballycastle to collect the bread from Ursa Minor and add a couple of take away flat white coffees to the order. Bread and coffee both smell delicious.

On the road to the Giant's Causeway about 15 miles away. Stop en route 

to see Dunseverick Castle which is, frankly, disappointing. Two bits of the former gatehouse remain and that's it…. So we don't stay very long.

Onward to the Giant's Causeway which is a slick operation from the car parking, the wrist bands, the route in through the shop, the electric powered bus to take you the mile or so to the Causeway and audio guides. Have a bit of a chat with the chap at the audio guide counter who's name badge says he's called 'Lynd'. Apparently an old family name.

We don our rain coats and set off to walk down the hill to the Causeway (no electric bus for us). At Windy Gap, where the road turns east, it is definitely windy, but warm.  

The actual Causeway is spectacular (even though I've been there several times). The columns form stepping stones that lead from the cliff to the sea. 

We spend time exploring the stones and then walk to Finn MacCool's pipe organ another left over from the lava flows. Definitely lovely weather now.

Walk back up to the reception area by which time we've walked 2.5 miles quite a lot of which was uphill! But worth it.

Drive to the town of Bushmills and park in a car park in the town centre where we've been advised that camper vans can stay overnight for free. There are loos but they close from c. 2000 to 0800. By the end of the evening there are twelve mo-hos parked up.

Walk to the distillery and visit the bar. 

Not fussed about a tour of the distillery as we've visited several in the past - I've been round Bushmills twice, so even as a non scientist have got the hang of the process.

For £10 one gets three glasses of whiskey to try - good, better, best (basic Bushmills, 10 year old and 12 year old). We buy a bottle of the 12 year old distillery reserve andI'm ear-worming "I like my men like I like my whisky, aged and mellow".

Walk back to the mo-ho, calling in at the Finn MacCool pub en route for a swift pint. To the Bushmills Inn for a drink and then dinner - good food but slooow to arrive. Takes an hour and a half for a two course meal. Across the road to the mo-ho and to bed. 

Don't want to get political but, as someone who lives in England and is, nominally, a Protestant, I couldn't feel much safer than here in Bushmills - Union flags 🇬🇧 everywhere and pictures of King Billy on the lamposts.

But marching season and big bonfires are being prepared in a number of towns for the 11th July 'bonfire night ' prior to the marches on 12 July.