Into 2023



On Wednesday 28 December we pack up, do laundry, clear the fridge and finally get on the road from Gore to Owaka in the Catlins (the far south east of NZ).  Very pretty drive, 85 Kms through the hills - a bit like the Downs but more rugged, and with toi toi, flax and macrocarpa trees - and gravel roads! 

Owaka - which means The Place of the Canoe in Maori - is small but has a supermarket, fuel station and several coffee shops, bars and motels.   And let's not forget Teapotland....


Arrive at our hostel, a former hospital then nurses home.
Thomas's Catlins Lodge


Once we find Jan on reception we're given a choice of bunk room (nope), double room (maybe) or twin with en suite + TV (yes).  John has been suffering on and off during this trip with a painful foot, which, between his sister, his wife and Dr Google, has been diagnosed as gout, so the less far he has to hobble to the bathroom the better.  Hoping a no alcohol/ red meat/ seafood diet (i.e. some of John's favourite foods) plus over the counter painkillers will sort this. Gout is known as the disease of kings so we need to move from regal to peasant and stick to bread, water and gruel. ....   But, it's cherry season here in New Zealand and they're supposed to be an anti gout super food.  

Thursday I leave John behind and drive to Kaka Point beach which is a lovely bay.  Water not super warm and most swimmers and boogie boarders are wearing wetsuits. I paddle, walk most of the length of the beach and back, and go for an ice-cream.
Kaka Point Beach


 Drive to Nugget Point and walk out to the lighthouse to admire the nuggets.
Nugget Point

Nugget Point Nuggets


Spot some seals sunbathing in rock pools but they're too far down the cliff to get a photo.  No sign of sea lions.
Sea Lion Sign

In the evening we drive the few hundred metres to the Catlins Inn pub to people watch and have a fairly average dinner amongst some fairly interesting company.  It'd be fair to say it was quite an introduction to some local vernacular.

Friday 30 December Florence Hoare again abandons the patient (not a lot to be done) and I drive the 40 Kms to the Cathedral Caves, stopping on the way to take a few fantastic pictures 
Tautuku Bay

Bit of a walk down through tree ferns and rain forest to the beach.
Follow the stream of people across the beach to the caves, which can only be accessed at low(ish) tide.    They've been hollowed out by wave action and are very impressive.




Walk the 15 to 20 minutes back up the path to the car park - definitely a warm uphill climb and I forgot to bring water 🥴.  Stop in Papatowi for a flat white on my way back.  And later don't get to sleep until nearly dawn. I thought my lying awake fretting days were gone.

New Year's eve we potter and do very little - don't even see in the New Year.  New Year's Day is good weather - we visit Purakaunui Falls which are lovely, but there hasn't been much rain. 


Purakaunui Falls





I visit the Owaka Museum which is very niche - but at least I know more about logging than I did,  and also why the Catlins are so called.  In the evening go for dinner at The Lumberjack in Owaka - good food,  served by a Yorkshire woman - she and I agree that a summer Christmas is not a proper Christmas!  (they are of course wrong and it is entirely the best and proper season for Christmas😉)

Tuesday 2 January we say goodbye to the hostel - not been our favourite place to stay as it's shabby and untidy. 
Thomas's Catlins Lodge

And tho' our room is ok, sheets are clean and the water very soft, so is good for the hair, the place smells institutional, in a boiled cabbage way.  Not happy either about the very beautiful gray cat who attacks people without warning or cause.

Psycho Cat

Off now to see the family.    

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